Western tourists return to North Korea after five years only to find themselves asking permission to use the bathroom while watching children perform in front of animated ballistic missiles.
At a Glance
- First Western tourists allowed into North Korea since pandemic lockdown in 2020
- Visitors faced extreme monitoring, requiring permission from minders for basic activities
- Trip included a bizarre children’s performance featuring ballistic missile animations
- Tourists prohibited from insulting the country’s leaders or ideology
- Despite restrictions, cultural exchange considered valuable for North Korean exposure to outside world
Big Brother’s Bathroom Policy
If you’ve ever complained about TSA security procedures, prepare for a whole new perspective on travel restrictions. North Korea has reopened its doors to Western tourists for the first time since 2020, but with conditions that would make even the most stringent airport security look like a self-service checkout. Visitors on this landmark trip found themselves under constant surveillance by government minders who controlled their every move – right down to basic bodily functions. One tourist, Mike O’Kennedy, reported, “A couple of times I even had to let them know when I wanted to use the bathroom.”
Young Pioneer Tours, a company specializing in trips to unusual destinations, quickly sold out available slots for this first post-pandemic venture into the secretive nation. The journey took travelers to North Korea’s Rason region, a special economic zone near the Russian and Chinese borders. Despite being one of the country’s more “open” areas, the experience remained tightly controlled, with visitors prohibited from wandering freely, taking unauthorized photos, or saying anything that might be construed as critical of the regime.
Missile Animations and Children’s Performances
In what might be the most surreal tourist experience since Disney’s “It’s a Small World” ride, visitors were treated to a children’s performance featuring animated ballistic missiles projected in the background. This bizarre juxtaposition of innocent schoolchildren performing against symbols of military might perfectly encapsulates North Korea’s approach to propaganda – start them young and make it memorable. The carefully choreographed itinerary also included visits to a beer factory, a pharmacy, and a school – all meticulously selected to present an idealized version of North Korean life.
“The North Koreans aren’t robots. They have opinions, goals, and a sense of humor. And in our briefing, we encourage people to listen to and understand them.” – Rowan Beard
The reality observed by tourists often contradicted this carefully curated image. Behind the performances and guided visits, travelers noted poor infrastructure, outdated facilities, and an overall sense of economic struggle that North Korean authorities attempt to conceal. The contrast between the glossy propaganda and observable reality created a cognitive dissonance that many tourists found fascinating, if unsettling. Despite these contrasts, tour guides like Rowan Beard encourage visitors to connect with North Koreans as individuals rather than stereotypes.
Cultural Missteps in a Hyper-Sensitive Environment
Navigating North Korea’s cultural and political sensitivities proved challenging even for well-briefed tourists. One British YouTuber described a moment of panic after writing “I wish the world peace” in a visitor book, only to be informed afterward that this was inappropriate. “That made me paranoid,” he admitted, highlighting the anxiety that comes with visiting a country where innocent comments might be interpreted as political statements. Tourists faced a comprehensive list of taboo actions including insulting the country’s leaders, mocking its ideology, or taking photos without permission.
“I went blank and wrote something like ‘I wish the world peace.’ Afterwards my guide told me that was an inappropriate thing to write. That made me paranoid.” – Mike O’Kennedy
Despite the strict controls and awkward moments, tourism advocates argue that these cultural exchanges benefit North Koreans by providing rare exposure to foreigners and outside ideas. In a country where information is tightly controlled, these brief interactions may represent the only authentic glimpse many North Koreans get of the outside world. For Western visitors, the experience offers insight into one of the world’s most secretive societies, even if that view comes through a carefully positioned window with government minders always standing nearby, ready to approve your next bathroom break.
